50 YEARS LATER...... chapter 1
It took me as long as that. Obviously, I had an exhibition which was a « must »
but when I suggested to Pierrette that she should come with me, she replied "why not for two or three days." We opted for nearly four days….Marseille here we come. For over 30 years I had been going backwards and forwards from Marseille when in Carry-le-Rouet with my Mother. There was always a reason to visit that city but never a reason to be a tourist. Now we were going to be tourists as we were in New York last year.
I followed my Iphone for the week preceding our departure and day by day the weather turned from rain to cloudy/sunny and then sunny. That’s what we had, sun and warmth and those beautiful clear skies which you see on the Mediterranean. A little Mistral just to prove to me that that ghastly wind was still around, but nothing to blow us off the streets. Our hotel was very central - we could walk everywhere - and we did.
Well not quite to Notre Dame de la Garde
Notre-Dame de la Garde (literally Our Lady of the Guard), is a Catholic basilica. A Neo-Byzantine church built by the architect Henri-Jacques Espérandieu on the foundations of an ancient fort located at the highest natural point in Marseille, a 149 m (490 ft) limestone outcrop on the south side of the Old Port. It is a major local landmark and the site of a popular annual pilgrimage every year on Assumption Day, August 15.
Well of course we wouldn’t be there for the pilgrimage but these are just some of the views there were to see from « way up there »!
I admit, we took the open bus up but I suggested to Pierrette we walk back down to the Old Port.
It hasn’t changed that much over the years except for this extraordinary mirror where all the pedestrians who are under it walk upside down. Quite something….
So that was our first afternoon and the evening lights brought another mystical feeling to the city. We saw the InterContinental Marseille- Hotel Dieu which is housed in a magnificent XVIIIth century and a historic, classified monument that was the former Hotel Dieu. I’ve just found out that it was transformed into a ***** hotel in 2013 when Marseille was the cultural city of Europe. Then the old quarter called « Le Panier » to visit the following day. Not to forget La Vieille Charité to see my exhibition. (Next chapter).
Although I know the Vieille Charité very well (one of the historical monuments which I really love) as we must have visited it over the years at least half a dozen times for exhibitions - probably more - but I did not know the quarter, Le Panier. As it stands today it has become an artists centre with 30 workshops and restaurants. Every one seem to have something « new », something different even to the extent of finding one artist who had turned Nespresso capsules into jewelry. One day we went into each one and frankly I never got sick of discovering what the local artists could do. Painters, sculptors, clothes, jewelry, and of course soaps. Marseille is renowned for its PURE (at 72%) soap….I bought a few little bars but Pierrette went overboard.
It’s a hilly quarter and after lunch we proceeded down to see the Cathédrale Le Majeur. Another well known landmark ……
After that we walked over to see MuCEM.1 museum, 3 sites. It is located overlooking the sea. Designed by Rudy Rucciotti. An Algerian (1953-) living in France who has designed quite a few buildings in France and Belgium.
A cube of lacy concrete resting at the lip of the Mediterranean Sea. I will be quite honest. I didn’t adhere to it. Big, black, lacy to be sure but there was no relief and I feel like saying it was a big block of square steel. Sorry to those who have gone overboard. I much prefer the limestone buildings which give so much warmth in that southern climate. Especially the Fort Saint-Jean .....
There were other churches to see and more soap to buy.
And two exhibitions to write about.
Unfortunately, the boats were not going out to visit the Calangues. The sea was too choppy - until our last day which dawned relatively calm….the tourist crowds had collected around the ticket office to see if we would go. We did and that rocketed me back to another life when I had visited the same on the western side of Marseille with my Mother.
I was very glad that this was not a trip down memory lane as there was no place for nostalgia. The memories will be those shared with Pierrette. A wonderful discovery break.
 |
| The MUST.... |
but when I suggested to Pierrette that she should come with me, she replied "why not for two or three days." We opted for nearly four days….Marseille here we come. For over 30 years I had been going backwards and forwards from Marseille when in Carry-le-Rouet with my Mother. There was always a reason to visit that city but never a reason to be a tourist. Now we were going to be tourists as we were in New York last year.
I followed my Iphone for the week preceding our departure and day by day the weather turned from rain to cloudy/sunny and then sunny. That’s what we had, sun and warmth and those beautiful clear skies which you see on the Mediterranean. A little Mistral just to prove to me that that ghastly wind was still around, but nothing to blow us off the streets. Our hotel was very central - we could walk everywhere - and we did.
Well not quite to Notre Dame de la Garde
Notre-Dame de la Garde (literally Our Lady of the Guard), is a Catholic basilica. A Neo-Byzantine church built by the architect Henri-Jacques Espérandieu on the foundations of an ancient fort located at the highest natural point in Marseille, a 149 m (490 ft) limestone outcrop on the south side of the Old Port. It is a major local landmark and the site of a popular annual pilgrimage every year on Assumption Day, August 15.
Well of course we wouldn’t be there for the pilgrimage but these are just some of the views there were to see from « way up there »!
 |
 |
 |
| The color which goes with the mediterrannean |
 |
I admit, we took the open bus up but I suggested to Pierrette we walk back down to the Old Port.
It hasn’t changed that much over the years except for this extraordinary mirror where all the pedestrians who are under it walk upside down. Quite something….
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Hotel Dieu |
 |
| Going up to Le Panier |
 |
| Another view InterC. |
 |
| The Chamber of Commerce |
 |
| Day time photo |
 |
| Arc Place Jules Guesde |
 | |
Although I know the Vieille Charité very well (one of the historical monuments which I really love) as we must have visited it over the years at least half a dozen times for exhibitions - probably more - but I did not know the quarter, Le Panier. As it stands today it has become an artists centre with 30 workshops and restaurants. Every one seem to have something « new », something different even to the extent of finding one artist who had turned Nespresso capsules into jewelry. One day we went into each one and frankly I never got sick of discovering what the local artists could do. Painters, sculptors, clothes, jewelry, and of course soaps. Marseille is renowned for its PURE (at 72%) soap….I bought a few little bars but Pierrette went overboard.
 |
| Soap everywhere |
 |
| Fish too |
 |
| Two artists ! |
 |
| Telling what they do |
 |
| We both loved this |
 |
 |
| So colourful |
 |
 |
| Put a few centimes into the nest.... |
It’s a hilly quarter and after lunch we proceeded down to see the Cathédrale Le Majeur. Another well known landmark ……
 |
| The cathedral and.... |
 |
| The maritime building |
 |
| Cathedral |
 |
| a modern painting inside which I liked |
 |
| The majestic doors |
 |
| Another view |
 |
| And Another |
 |
| Coming down from Le Panier-Les Ecoules |
After that we walked over to see MuCEM.1 museum, 3 sites. It is located overlooking the sea. Designed by Rudy Rucciotti. An Algerian (1953-) living in France who has designed quite a few buildings in France and Belgium.
A cube of lacy concrete resting at the lip of the Mediterranean Sea. I will be quite honest. I didn’t adhere to it. Big, black, lacy to be sure but there was no relief and I feel like saying it was a big block of square steel. Sorry to those who have gone overboard. I much prefer the limestone buildings which give so much warmth in that southern climate. Especially the Fort Saint-Jean .....
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| The Fort Saint Jean |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
 |
| Different views of the MuCEM |
There were other churches to see and more soap to buy.
 |
| Not quite a church but no artist... |
 |
| More soap |
 |
| And all sweet things... |
 |
| And all sweet things... |
 |
| And all sweet things... |
Unfortunately, the boats were not going out to visit the Calangues. The sea was too choppy - until our last day which dawned relatively calm….the tourist crowds had collected around the ticket office to see if we would go. We did and that rocketed me back to another life when I had visited the same on the western side of Marseille with my Mother.
 |
| Leaving |
 |
| Leaving |
 |
 |
 |
| Cassis |
 |
| Another boat |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Too cold to swim |
 |
| Too cold to swim |
 |
| Don't look - it's the nudist beach |
 | |
|
 |
| on our way back |
 |
| Two blown to bits girls |
 |
| nearly back |
 |
| into Marseille |
I was very glad that this was not a trip down memory lane as there was no place for nostalgia. The memories will be those shared with Pierrette. A wonderful discovery break.
Commentaires