SHANGHAI IS BLING BLING

The bullet train was the local TGV with added announcements  at every station of messages to " be good, clean, respectful, not to get off for a smoke at a station........" This did not stop passengers shouting into mobile telephones. I remember this from Hong Kong but on a 5 hour trip it´s a bit much. Passengers laugh at conversations. Foreigners growl. I dozed. The young man next to me sang. His voice was quite good.

We arrived dead on time and Veronique was there to meet me. Her French was even better than the girl in Beijing.
So here I was back in the lights and energy of Shanghai. In the centre. An old hotel but quiet. The Astor. In fact it was the first hotel in Shanghai and has retained its traditional feeling. 

As it was 

As the dining room is 

I insisted on having wifi in my room so was moved the following morning with a view which was not to complain about. But then, I don't complain if I get by and there were a few problems I had in Shanghai on a personal level which were resolved simply and efficiently. The Chinese don't think they will become world leaders. I'm not so sure.

Changes colors every few minutes

green to purple

to red 

and mauve

I was overlooking the Waibaidu Bridge which is one of the symbols of Shanghai. 
It's modern and undoubtedly considered as a city landmark considering all the tourists who are there "snapping it". Also, it's a constant on the changing skyline. It's here too that you see on an every day basis what I thought were models for tourists but instead they are real couples having their photograph album completed before the great day. The families get together so the couples can be photographed in strategic places. There are even trips to Europe (which explains why I saw some on the first level of the Eiffel tower a few years ago, or in Italy when I was there with Laurent, Jerome and Gianni) and Australia.  Considering that the bride is in white - I wonder how often the dress has to be cleaned before D-day? And even the red gown (for prosperity) must look a little tatty after such a photographic session. 

Shanghai is a city to walk in. Beijing is a city full of mystery and not easy to crack. Here life is on the street level. I crossed  bridal couples everyday, a homosexual population which makes the Marais in Paris look tame, beggars, ladies dressed in Dior, Chanel or you name it and the old lady doing her washing in the street. I wasn't fast enough to take photos of moments which were unforgettable scenes. These scenes you will surely know.....

The end of the day - the Perl tower

That will be the second tallest tower in the world - after Dubai (2014)

Walking along the Bund

a Full view 

China Merchant Bank

Shanghai Custom's House 

Shanghai Pudong Development Building

A bull....!!!

Former Telegraph Building - now a Bank

Shanghai every night 

The Peace Building lit up

The Perl Tower at night 

Westin Hotel

Life is in Nanjing Avenue - 5 kilometers long with perhaps one and a bit given over to pedestrians. I walked to the top and back. As it was necessary to call in at a pharmacy, I had been given directions for the "n°1 Citizen's Pharmacy" I saw the sign and stopped in my tracks. It made our number one pharmacy on the Place Monge look very small. 

The FIRST People's pharmacy 

Difficult to miss

Nanjing street early morning

Later in the day

Afternoon

Nanjing Street East 

Did I cover 10 kilometres or more every day? Along the sea esplanade taking photos of a world which is unreal and changing in colour all the time. People, crowds, Chinese tourists galore.....  Quite obviously the Shanghai sport is shopping. I visited shopping malls and got lost on floors and floors of unlimited brands and goods from every country in the world. However, it's in Pudong where the French designer brands are readily available.Despite the fact that such products cost more than 20% of the European price, there were still frenetic purchasers.  Our shops and malls look scruffy in comparison. Not a paper on the floor. Streets are cleaned by women of all ages. I doubt if the word unemployment exists in the Chinese language. At night the city comes alive sparkling and showing her glory until at 10pm lights go off - or partly.

As shopping was the national sport, museums and especially the local modern art museum which had a large exhibition on Dior which didn't interest me but surely there was a permanent collection? 



These were strange creatures I crossed before getting to the MOCA - 

Frankly, the Chinese were not taking much interest in them.

It' not true? Shopping and art are local passtimes? The queue was unbelievable to get into the MOCA. My card got me in with an extra 3€ to pay and then I saw further crowds waiting inside to get into the Dior. No permanent collection. I doubled back pushing now as I know how to and decided to go to the Shanghai museum. Also on the People's square or gardens. I didn't get there either. Where do they all come from? 

Going up to the railway 

One of the little wagons 

So back to the Underground Bund Pedestrian crossing to Pudong under the harbor  which is a first in China. A science fiction electric car system which takes you all the way to the modern side of Shanghai. Now I would see all those towers close at hand.



The little wagons which hold perhaps a dozen people but only three can sit, go through a passageway which is a science fiction lunar park. They run every couple of minutes so I asked to wait until I could sit down. Once on the other side it was like a maze of giants hanging over you. The tallest building seemed to touch the sky.

Was I leaning or it?

Right underneath

Looking down at Pudong  from the cross over 

Bus and cars seem small

That middle tower will be the tallest

A pass for the other side

Flower gardens are social

I saw the restaurant opposite but how to get there?

Zut wrong side

Right side but how to get to the restaurant ?

It was now 2pm and I was feeling like food. Restaurants are not easy to find. Fast food, eating in the street from stalls or buying in food marts in the overpowering shopping malls is local custom. Not for me. I had seen from a long way off and high up what looked like a restaurant. An hour later a dish chosen from a picture menu with a title "new arrivai" was before me. Brochettes of some kind but no-one was able to tell me what. As I was starving it went down whatever it was.

Mall after Mall. The excitement was wearing off even if clowns were there to amuse us. Shopping saturation had set in and I had bought nothing. 

Where I ate

The clown

who didn't seem funny to the crowds

They are REAL

REAL but how did they color them?

Years ago when I was teaching marketing and distribution in a series of Master courses at universities, one of the 12 courses in the year was "Cosmetic Distribution around the World" A city I spoke about was Shanghai. My facts were right for 20 years ago (I double checked that on Wiki) but had absolutely nothing to do with Shanghai today. Copies of anything can be found but now peddlars whisper as you stroll by "want Channel watch? Viiieeeton bag? ......" The  huge counterfeit market is no longer transparent and the beginning of shopping malls has been replaced by a city of towers and endless shops, luxury or less so. Rather like Kowloon and the wealthy islands in Hong Kong. There too, I always stayed in Kowloon. 

A small wedding arriving....

Do you know many hotels where the restaurants are closed for weddings? This has been the case here for two nights running at the Astor. I'm beginning to feel like a local in the bar. The changes are like none other that I know. What will tomorrow bring?
  

A magical day! Having done my homework as to what should be done in Shanghai, the programme was mapped out for the day. So as not to lose time, I made sure that I was going in the right direction - on foot- leaving a bewildered girl at reception. Walk? The hour indicated for the walk to Yuan was not an hour. I was there in 30 minutes. Upon entry, two young people stopped me take a photo next to a rather unique tree. As the sun was blinding me the photos I took were all bad. They told me that! Then the chat began. Despite my insistance that I wanted to move on, no way this would happen. They wanted me to "take tea"! I gave in and as we made our way to goodness knows where, I looked for easy to remember landmarks as I would be returning to my starting point. Was it a hoax as I had been told such "pick-ups" were. Difficult to say. We arrived at a remote tea house where I then complained of a bad stomach, said goodbye hastily and rushed off.

This was the traditional side of Shanghai where the crowds out numbered the Chinese houses. Antiques and everything Chinese. Mixtures of kitch, modern, dirty, smelly and perfumed lived together. Crowds which would daunt us in Europe and quickly I wanted a way out. My pushing techniques were not authoritative enough.

Going in to the old city

I was not alone

NOT alone at all 

And another 

Got to the other side 

Another Pagode

Buddah is there

For wealth 

for littérature

Preparing incense for Buddah

In an unprotected fire 

Throwing the incense 

But into a special recipient 

Your Chinese horoscope 

Leaving the crowds behind  

I hope to leave them

Crossing the street

 






So there were the gardens and the small fee I paid to enter this haven was nothing compared to the sigh I breathed once inside. There were few single visitors and as the groups were kept on a tight rope I could be alone. You must visit these gardens if even on Internet as there is something unreal and peaceful in what Shanghai is today. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yu_Garden You can't go too far wrong if you talk about something belonging to the Ming Dynasty - it was certainly one of the longest and sophisticated.

Entrance

A few people ahead

But I was protected

So peaceful

And so alone 

Rock formations of another time

400 year old Ginko

Looking up

Another tree 

Not all the Chinese work all day

A French group was rushed in, sat down and in a French which sounded more like Chinese to me, I listened, understood little and even if I had, what would I have retained? They were off to lunch and suddenly the gardens were silent. There I found a gallery which promised a Bienniale exhibition for an artist which I knew nothing about. Without hesitation, I entered. No-one. Quickly I was approached by a middle aged woman. Perfect English and she knew her art world. "I am not here to buy but to learn" and then she picked up that I was interested in modern art. That is where I was directed. "It" looked at me.....I will say no more especially anything to do with realistic art work leaves me indifferent. Of course I had to be shown the other galleries. "Perhaps you would like a pendant?" I looked fast at the shelves of jade and other stones. This time I was safe. "No. The only thing I like to collect from the different countries outside of Europe are those I can put on my chain around my neck." A collection which I had started in Tunisia with my Mother over 40 years ago. No more than 8 but all very special. She turned to one of the most handsome Chinese I think I have ever seen. Said something. He looked at my chain and then searched in a series of those tiny drawers you find in Chinese cabinets. "This" he said. I was then to learn that he has the World Guinness record for writing on a single piece of hair. 
Here is what is printed on his card.....

Mr Zhou Yukun, Pen name is Jiyan, was born in 1961, Shanghai. his representative work of the Genes in word record  is hand micro-carving 43 English letters on a Human hair of 9,83 Millineter. Length and micro-carving 157 Chinese characters on a human hair of a length of 28 Millimeter  

I have typed the text as it exactly as it  appears on his card -  
        
So, one of the most famous Chinese calligraphists. He printed my name in Chinese along with part of my birthdate. Until it hung correctly on the chain, he was not satisfied. By now a crowd had gathered. Tears were in my eyes as the woman embrassed me. A very unusual gesture for an Asiatic. "goodbye my "horse" . May your route be long" . I stumbled down the track. 

Here he is

I didn't know about this photo

More about him

A understandable chart 

Then I was stopped at a tea-house. Another beauty said 'you need tea. Free tea." I did indeed. There further adventures began with laughter and giggles along the way. Why is it that the only things I ever see are of the best quality, the least touristic.......why? 

Making tea

Sharing a moment 

Those frogs change color when hot water is poured on. Red means "money coming in".

I knew now too the MA was a horse in Chinese and as that is my Chinese birth sign it was easy to remember.

Leaving the crowds behind 

Into a shopping centre where we were  3 people

So another day drifts by at the speed of knots. Next on the list is the Little Venise of Shanghai. 60 kilometres from the centre but still Shanghai district. As soon as the underground goes through to the outskirts prices triple for real estate. Despite the sardine look alike horrors they are large flats starting at 90square metres. The flat is bought. The land is leased for 75 years. Handing down real estate costs money. 

 Shanghai's Venise in located in a suburb of Shanghai city. It's an ancient water town well known throughout the country with a history of more than 1700 years. It covers an area of 47 square kilometers. 

Endowed with another elegant name - 'Pearl Stream' - the little town is the best-preserved among the four ancient towns in Shanghai. Unique old bridges across bubbling streams, small rivers shaded by willow trees, and houses with courtyards attached all transport people who have been living amidst the bustle and hustle of the modern big city to a brand-new world full of antiquity, leisure and tranquillity.

 Bridges in the Town. It is said that to visit Zhujiajaio without seeing the bridges means that you have not really been to Zhujiajiao at all! Bridges here are distinctive and old, built during Ming and Qing Dynasties. The old town is thoroughly connected by 36 delicate spans in different shapes and styles, from wooden to stone to marble.......

We arrived an hour later. Although this was a" Venise" with its canals overshadowed by trees, I don't like to think what the village (as they call it) would be like at the weekend. How many people would end in the filthy looking water? 

From one of the bridges

A poorer area

Red lanterns......

Everywhere

A cleaner area

No washing - today

A B and B

Local Venise 

The first bridge 

Canals lined with trees

Going on

And passing us

We were there early so few people around to bother us. Veronique showed me exotic foods. Some I would have jumped at but not that poor tortoise and how I wish this  beautiful bird had snapped off the fingers of the Chinese teasing it. 

Soja 

Beans of some kind 

Poor thing

He was so tormented

Official letters

Official plaits 

The postal boat 

Weekly messages 

The prisoner with message

Old post cards

Finally a letter box 

Entrance to the P.O.

The old post office was a marvel. Once again the Chinese came in first with the postage stamp and methods of sending the mail or confidential messages. Prisoners had a part of their head shaved and a confidential message written onto it!  At least here I saw a letter box. If I had wanted to send my cards out next year and knew which month, I could even do that!






Some very important trader had been thrown out of his resident during one revolution. His gardens are now a museum of kinds.
Depending on the importance, the noble's court yard entrances are higher following his position in society. This man had three courtyards. His daughters (any daughter) was not permitted to go out alone. Which makes me think of all those dressed brides having their photos taken in the streets. Weddings are no longer organized today so I was told, but I wonder......

An outside theatre is now in his garden

The garden

And will nibble from your finger

See the clothes drying? 

A bull to protect the crop

Or scare-crows

8 men needed to lift this 

School girls choosing hats outside 

Another anecdote. Ikea is called the retired people's sitting place. In Shanghai they gather there during the day in the hope of meeting a "friend'! They'll be trying out the beds next.

But to get back to the village. One interesting point is that all these river villages were virtually abandoned during the cultural revolution. An extremely well known artist whose name I cannot remember returned from the USA after many years away to live in this village. He painted these places and one paintings was sold to an American collectioner. He then became known in China although he was already well known in the States. Bingo such villages were restored and went onto the tourist map.

On the way back to Shanghai we visited the  cashmere centre. Hope a few of my men friends will be pleased! Then a centre where duckdown duffet were made from silk. The process was fascinating. Only twin silk worms make the silk which is used. There is no stitching and inside the real quilt which my hands touched is the cover. Winter or Summer weight and frankly ridiculously inexpensive by our standards.

Stretching layers of silk

On a frame 

Adding layers to the quilt to be

Stretching it to the size 

With a helping hand 

By now a new case had to be thought of and was at the case centre. If I had been alone I would have turned around and out - out - such places terrify me. I see what I want and buy it or I leave. Veronique saved me. 

Where do you start?

10$ leather trimming case in hand 

The final evening was at the Shanghai Theatre, west Nanjing Street. An area which was rich and for the rich. I had arrived early to have a bit of something to eat. So ashamed as I ate in a "steak bar". And yet, this too was an eye opener. Buy a burger and have one free. The sizes of the Chinese eating them made 100kilos look slender. I ate a salad which like any European was "rabbit food."

The acrobatics show was out of this world. It was the first in my experience. Veronique had got a good seat and I sat there for an hour and a half oooohhhhhhing and aaaaahing like everone else. Photos were forbidden but this is my next party trick and you can see me in the back row. Even if one dared to take photos it was foolish to do so. Too much was going on. A women card magician around my age threw cards into the audience at the end of her act - I was hit by the 5 of hearts. But how? Her hands were empty when she threw the cards.  A boy of 12? Thrown into the air and there he was sitting in a chair on three other acrobats shoulders....,http://www.shanghaiacrobats.co

Today I go home. It's time to do so. The M 50 contemprary centre was worth it. The hotel confirmed that I was wasting my time going there as this really is not art - and this artist conveyed exactly that. Yet so many Chinese artists are making big  names  for themselves overseas but probably don't become famous in their home country until they are known abroad. 

The centre was more interesting than in Pekin but nothing I will be following. However, there is definitely an underlying feeling in both cities, that contemporary art is "not on". Yet when an artists becomes famous outside of China and notably in Europe, he is respected a little more. Apart from the woman I had spoken to in the Yu Gardens (and even she did not rate such art very high) everyone thought I was wasting my time. 

Art not a sign 

Liked this....

A child weeping from stress

an unrecognized poet 

Depicting the amount of books needed to learn

????

Graffiti outside 

What's going on - but....

Revolution 

can be modern 

Interesting but not new

Thank goodness two Chinese girls stopped a taxi for me. Three had ignored me and the man at the gate spoke no English. I tell you again - Chinese women will rule the world! 

Flying free and not on the box

Just a small story before I leave. 
I remember washing my daughter's "rabbit" out when she was around 18 months. No way she would leave it hanging alone on the line. Years a later, the same scene, but I did not take the photo of the little girl. 

Easier than a hole in the floor !

Also, this sign is quite funny. Nicky told me that her grandmother said she could go to a toilet in a café alone - she was about 8. Nicks came rushing back and said "but there is only a hole in the floor.....what do I do?" Here is the story in China......








Paris I'll be happy to see you.