TROLL COUNTRY AND COMFORT

The 2nd

A silence of over ten days. But I was up in Troll country on a cruise in the Fjords. When I returned there were an overwhelming +400 photos to look at taken from my camera, Iphone or Ipad....a micmac of images which I am still swimming around in. 

Let’s go back. Close friends told me about this cruise which I felt that I could ill afford. «Nonsense» I was told. «It is the Costa line and after the incident in Italy when a captain steered his boat into an island - and sank it, confidence was not running high for Costa! Promotions, promotions....» sure enough the prices were cut to ribbons and in seconds, so it seemed, I had a cabin virtually next to my friends on the 7th deck up (on 9) and was now to visit the Fjords in Norway. A trip I have always wanted to do but not in these conditions.

The cruise

A town, a floating city or as another friend said rather cynically,
« floating council flats»....of course, when you are talking about 3000 passengers, (we were 2900) a crew of a 1000, a ship which is as high as my own building in Paris, it is mighty awesome. I hate crowds at the best of time; loathe «happy-happy» club activities and cringe in front of «gentils animateurs».

Boarding the ship - The Costa Fortuna - was easier than boarding a TGV train in Paris. Smooth, organized....Our cases were taken at the gates and Francis said, «you’ll find that in your cabin».... skeptical to say the least especially as we boarded 10 minutes later. «I bet you a glass of champagne that I wont....» I lost. From arriving at the wharf to taking the lift to the 7th floor, 20 minutes must have elapsed. My case was waiting in a very comfortable cabin.  An equally charming Philippine lass greeted me with a warm smile. I got to know her well over the week and learn a lot about how the ship worked - from her point of view.

This is the first view I had

Looking up before barding

Cabin 7412

Next stop was of course to do «le grand tour» - but as it was nearly dinner time, the most important - where was the restaurant? There are more than 7 restaurants on the ship. Finding ours was never easy. 



Singing and dancing in the Raffelo Restaurant

Moon gazing from my balcony

Looking forward

Looking up

Looking back

Space .....

The food, all week, was fantastic. Italian cuisine, light and not copious helpings, varied and adapted to a «non energetic» life style. If you wanted it that way. Not being a cake or sweet eater there was no need to stuff myself with the delicious little numbers - apparently - served up at every meal. 

After dinner, concerts, shows, singing, dancing - and a very large casino with those dreadful machines but rather than pulling leavers, all was done by pressing buttons....I shun in front of such toys and run for my cabin. Peace, books, and the sea...a little balcony where I could sit, rugged up and look at the stars. Listening to the very gentle swish of the sea as we sailed along. So gentle that it was difficult to believe we were on a ship at all.

The first day we were at sea so had the time to climb decks and discover all. Once again, overwhelming. Jogging, gym, swimming, dancing, a Spa.....and the casino was full from early morning to late at night. The latter I did not control

No money is used on the ship. You have an identity card which serves for payment and for control on leaving and returning to the ship. What bliss for people who lose control of their losses at the casino....

and the ship is behind.....

There is no need to talk about each stop. The highlights for me where the Fjords themselves, Geiranger and Oslo. The Fjords are an unforgettable experience....so after our first foot on firm ground at Andalsnes where I met my first Troll, we were back on the ship at a reasonable hour as we had not partaken in an excursion. 


Dinner and for me, my cabin. The following day it was an early rise and off to Geiranger...once again, the organisation of all those people rushing off for guided tours is extraordinary. No hassle and a steady flow despite super controls when leaving and re-boarding the ship. Impressive. 

Geiranger we climbed and we climbed - in a bus.

Climbing and snowy waterfalls

We were going UP there

And further up ......

And still further but not yet there but there is Styrne

It was already chilly in the village when we left but as we drove on those twisting roads with apparent snow all around us, I could feel the chill in the air. Finally at 1500 metres we left the bus. It was 4°. Views which  speak for themselves. We stopped off at the Styrne Lake at 1000 metres - and it didn’t feel any warmer. 

Styrne and no warmer

Looking down .....

Right on top of the world

Looking down at the lake ...

First view of the ship from up top

Not one but three....

And as we came down, the views were more and more exceptional. Not one ship, now three were in the bay. Would we all go off together? No. It would have been impossible to maneuver  - the straights are too narrow and who would want to swim to land in that water?

shadows in transparent ater

   

See what I mean ?

 Even if it was transparent, trolls would certainly have eaten me up.


In the afternoon we were told that this part of the journey was through the most beautiful Fjords in Norway. My friends had cabins on the stern of the ship. Already watching the wake was beautiful in itself. For hours on end we watched. Frozen waterfalls, colours which changed with the light, the sun and the time of day. I just stood there and gazed - grabbing a camera or an Ipad or the phone when there was something new that came into view...all the time.

The wake .....

Entering the Fjords BabordTr

Where we had been on top of that mountain

Tribord

Moving on.....

And looking up....

Each turn it changes....

And changes.....

And where we had come from...;

I know there are trolls in there....

And turning soon....

Stavanger the following day was Viking country. But before that the iron age where not so long ago relics were discovered and an original hut reconstructed. It was a pretty town and a few things to see but wandering up the tiny streets and seeing the Fortuna top the houses made me wonder if I really would want to have such a ship in my «back yard».

Back yard.....

A nicer vista

And the Costa is there.....

My Mother had described Oslo to me in some detail. She loved it but especially the Munch museum. There wouldn’t be time for me to visit this - unfortunately - The excursion gave us an overall view of what is now the richest city in Europe - petrol and gaz - and the most expensive. We walked through a major park and were presented the remarquable sculptures of the Norwegian artist Gustav Viegeland. I knew nothing about him. He was commissioned by the city to create his own universe of humans and animals in the gardens. 121 of them which tell their story from birth to the end of life. There are some very touching sculptures and the monolith took three stone cutters 14 years to complete. There was not enough time to really look at these sculptures. Even the opera house which is a remarkable building with Monica Bonvicini’s sculpture in the bay «She Lies» - a monument of change, of hope which moves as the tide moves.  A fleeting glimpse of the building where the Nobel Prize is awarded but it seemed insignificant next to these modern structures we had just seen.

Gustav Viegeland

Gustav Viegeland

Gustav Viegeland

Gustav Viegeland

The Opera House in Oslo

The Monolith Gustav Viegeland

Monica Bonvicini’s sculpture "She Lies"

The Costa from the Opera

Three bits of sculpture

The cathedral in Lubeck

Along with Marzipan

Finally Lubeck. The city of Thomas Mann and Marzipan. What a combination. It was declared a heritage city by UNESCO in 1987 and I suppose it is fascinating to wander through the 13th century streets, see houses dating from the 15th and 16th century .... I get a little ratty on such excursions following a guide and then looking down a little street with some interesting statue or house front and unable to whisk off and see it. Such tours give you an overall idea of a town and if you retain dates, facts, I am sure they are very interesting. I still like discovering myself and then going onto Internet to discover more....the Niederegger Marzipan exhibition and cafe were unique. That I did go off and see alone. The fresh vegetable soup was delicious and a pleasant change from a week of Italian food. 

And Thomas Mann

Thomas Man museum

The Little merrmaid in Copenhagen

 The trip was ending.  Copenhagen the following day with time to take a photograph of the Little Mermaid which is really little as I had remembered from the first time. The plane and then home.



This is a trip to be done with friends who have the same rhythm as you do. It’s nice to know there are friends to dine with but for me it was essential to escape from the hum drum of the mobs. It would be a miserable experience if travelling alone and being as unsociable as I am. There loneliness would really set in. Such organisation, staff and comfort are rare «accessories» in life today. An unforgettable experience for this and for nature’s scenery which is to be seen to be believed. Most important though. Francis and Nicole who had suggested that I went. Thank you.