AN EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCE

My trip to Lyon was totally unexpected. About ten days ago, I was in a café waiting for a friend and one of our daily papers had been left on the table. In actual fact, « the Cultural section » had been left behind. Opening it up, I noticed that there was a Benjamin Britten festival on in Lyon. This was a must. Having seen the film version of « Peter Grimes  » last year, I just booked for « The Turning of the Screw » and « Curlew River ». I had seen both operas before and the most memorable was Curlew River which I saw with my Mother in the courtyard of a « hotel particulier » in Aix en Provence.  We were both overwhelmed by the music and poignancy of the story - not to mention an ideal setting - a starlit night. I booked for the two at the new Opera House and then for the train and hotel. A good friend was now living in Lyon after 10 years in Morocco - I would see him too.

In the TGV magazine there was an article on the Lyon Beaux Arts for the Françoise Dupuy-Michaud collection. I certainly didn’t know who they were but as the pictures were abstract, strong, I knew that I would take that in too.

It must be over 30 years since I have really visited Lyon or stayed there for more than one night. The station was totally new and finding how to get out of it was  unreal. Rushing around were trolley busses and trams - I no longer knew Lyon. Craig (the friend in question) had given me very clear instructions of how to walk to the hotel which I got wrong within 2 minutes, so grabbed a taxi. Time was too important to waste it getting lost.

I’ll talk about the Beaux-Arts in the next chapter. The opera first. The new opera house looks more like some factory than anything else. Aluminum stairs inside which are not recommended for high heeled shoes. Five floors and a modern interior. I had been warned that dressing maybe a little more than the Parisian blue jean outfits for an opera.  The dressing was an incredible mixture from very fluffy cocktail dresses to very « torn » jeans. I had dressed but there was not need to.

Here are just a couple of pictures of the outside and inside. 

 


 









PETER GRIMES

CURLEW RIVER




Both operas were out of this world. Not once did my head nod off to sleep. I was glued to the singers. The orchestra was led by a Japanese, Kazushi Ono. He’s been in place since 2008. My experience with Japanese musicians or conductors  is that they are technically perfect but warmth and emotion are missing. Mr. Ono was an exception. The music for both operas is very touching and tears were in my eyes. As I was sitting in the first balcony, I could watch him and it was a beautiful and sensuous experience. He was also extremely good looking. I cursed myself for not having booked for « Peter Grimes » I am practically certain that it would have outshone the filmed production I saw last year - and that was excellent too. Both operas were modern, the scenery tremendous, the production and direction stunning…..but then I do love Britten. 


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Michael Keane a dit…
Saw the premiere of "Curlew River" many years ago at Aldeburgh.
11/5/14 05:54
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