SO, WOULD YOU WEAR IT?

The other day when browsing through the « What’s on in Paris » weekly, I noticed that there was an exhibition on contemporary jewelry at the Arts Decoratifs Museum. Finishing on the 2nd March. As I am very interested in really modern jewelry, especially earrings, I thought this would be an interesting thing to do on a beautifully sunny day in Paris…..so off I trotted - a pleasant walk along the Seine, over the « Lover’s Bridge » and what did I see - unbelievable - two lines of people to get into the Louvre which were over 500 metres long- that I have never seen. Fortunately as it was just after opening hours and my museum was a little quieter. « I Love you ICOM ».

Now what would expect to see for such and exhibition? I quite often visit temporary exhibitions at the A.D. and invariably they are spread over a couple of floors - no more than that. Regrouped themes seemed to be the order of the day. This time I was in for a shock. The contemporary jewelry was included in collections from the 15th century to today on four floors. Oh well, I have never visited the sections in question so I was about to.

It took a little time to figure out how the presentation was integrated into the different centuries. There is a very good reason for this too. It wasn’t until perhaps I had walked around the 14/15th century - looking for the work that I understood that everything was really introduced into, onto, under and over all the objects I was to see. You had to look out for red signs which signaled you were seeing something contemporary.

A very strange feeling as sometimes we were not aware of was it « today » or was it « yesterday »?. At one point I stopped, asking myself if the different artists had actually worked and created pieces for the different periods. But no - it was a coincidence and the curator who was handling it had a marvelous eye. Many times I was confused.

Sophie Hanagarth - 2012 : rings and 15th C

Sophie Hanagarth - 2012 :

Patrick Veillet - "skinned" HAND AND EAR

15c BEDROOM

Practically modern - 15th C

Cranach's work shop 16th

Jewelry symbolizes dreams and is very much a reflection of our innermost selves - one that we want to display. It’s a form of identity, isn’t it, a social symbol. As I wandered from show case to showcase or installation to another I was stunned by what I saw. As modern as it was, everything seemed to fit into the century where we looked at it.

SOPHIE HANNAGARTH - 2011-2012

Italian 16th

Emmanuel Lacoste 2006 - and my non 16th C head

Emmanuel Lacoste 2006

Aude Tahon 2013

There was not one thing I would have wanted to put on. Not even the Chanel or the Balenciaga - what I saw seemed more of a statement - out to shock - hardly what you would be wearing to the ball on Saturday night. The titles meant nothing - so unless I felt like it, haven’t included them. The artists - I knew nothing about.

Chanel Couture - collection 2010

Chanel Fashion show

Chanel Couture - collection 2010

Chanel Haute couture 1970: Robert Goosens for Chanel

Another piece of jewelry I would not be wearing either. Silk worms weaving around my ear or on my nipple. Not for me. I can remember very clearly when my Mother had a beatle which was a broach. It crawled around her jumper but attached with a pin. Horrible.

Installation with silk worms

For you?

Not for me

And yet, there has been a « Jewelry Circuit » going on in Paris since last year. 500 contemporary designers from all over the world. 70 exhibitors aimed at highlighting the great diversity of today’s jewelry scene. In specific shops all over Paris!  
Maybe so - but frankly, what I saw today was « the spectacular » and not the wearable - in my book anyway.