THE LAND OF BEAUTIFUL HORSES AND THE PLACE YOU CANNOT SEE

Earlier in the year, I had visited the Egean coast in Turkey with a group. Excursions organized by the Turkish industry at a very competitive price for the service given. A wise move of the government to keep the many tourist hotels and ressorts full the whole year around. The return is when possible that purchases should be made for carpets, gold and leather goods. I had bought a reversible suede/leather three quarter coat in April which is far too sophisticated for me so may replace it this time with what I want. The previous guide, you may remember, had scolded the group as few articles had been bought. It was a group of teachers who are not highly paid in France and if they chose the trip in question it was because of the price. I guess that meant that Ibrahim didn't get too many commissions either.

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If I had chosen to do a second trip of this nature it was to come to Cappadoce - my Mother had always wanted to come. In a way I had built up a fantasty image of this site which supposedly represents the beginning of humanity. Post cards added to the many images I had not to mention friends who had spoken glowingly of the area without, now I come to think of it, really descrbing it in any detail

A little too close to the Botswana adventure but this was unavoidable. This time I was travelling with Nicky. The pressure of the group and being the single traveller would, I hope be avoided.

Compared to the drama of air travel to Jo'burg, this was a cup of tea. Four hours after leaving Paris we were in the bus n°2 for our overnight stop close to Antalya. These hotel complexes are immense. In the height of the season the thousands of tourists must be overwhelming. At the first evening buffet people seem to eat and refill their plates as if the end of the world was tomorrow . The diet is notoriously repititous and by the second day my food capacity is reduced to a single plate of food and a fruit. No cider in these countries. Water would have to suffice.

After dinner, Nicky and I played table tennis with what looked like an apricot ball. It certainly bounced very strangely.

Off early the following morning and our first real dose of the guide. Murat. Handsome, with eye lashes that even Miss Giraffe would find difficult to compete with. Are all these guides "look alike?" The previous one, Ibrahim was reincarnated in Murat.

Ibrahim

Murat

Nicky took notes as his voice droned on for hours in the bus. An impeccable French but with so much information on Turkey, geography, history and what we were to see that day that I tuned out. Nicky would, as she did all along the trip, fill me in with the essential details.
The first stops were not overly interesting for me. There was the Caravanserails where commerce had been carried out centuries ago and a museum but not my "culture."
I do remember one fact Murat mentioned about Konya, (1600 metres above sea level) which was the largest spread city of the region with some million inhabitants and the volcano that flanked it. Alajabel. Was this how Cappadoce and the Goreme had been formed three million years ago?

Going to a watch tower

Negotation tower Caravserail

Arcades

Caravanserail

If I didn't totally appreciate the Mevlâna Müsesi museum it was because of the crowds. I was beginning to feel a little bit concerned about the number of people we would confront in Cappadoce - tomorrow was the big day.

Mevlâna Museum

The different Derviche living and study place

The dome

Once again the hotel was in the wilderness. As before there would be no contacts with the real people. Nicky felt sorry about that. So did I. Each comfort stop was crowded with "made in China" arts and crafts - all the same and yet tourists seem to be attracted to such bibelots rather than the sites we were to visit.

No Ping Pong and to bed early. The following day we would be taking a montgolfière and float over the Goreme. A 4-30 rise which in French terms meant 3-30! Ouch.

The balloons were like huge sheets lying on their sides. We watched fascinated as little by little air and flames were belted into nylon and Teflon structures.

Watching the preparation.....coffee in hand at 6-30

The next field

Flames

Suddenly the balloon rose high on its tiny basket where we would be 20 odd passengers standing in four little compartiments. The pilot was in the middle. You dont get more handsome than that. He gave us explanations about landing (I gather these safety precautions were to be used if we landed on our side as one balloon did.) How many were we ? I asked." Not so many today" answered Mutafa," 100...." With a slow woosh we floated upwards.

As the sun rose.....

Our Captain Mustafa

Nearly ready to go

First one up

Going up with us in front line

Floating away

And up they went

And more went up

Nicky And I were the translators. Dissatisfaction on so many faces. All those balloons hundreds of metres above us and we were virtually only metres above the roof tops of houses. Nicky suggested to Mustafa that perhaps if we went a little higher we would all be happier...."Have confidence in me," was the reply. Faces were not happy and I began to ask myself if there was something wrong with the balloon.....when suddenly up and up we went to see the sun rising and then float over the fairy chimneys, sculptures, faces, phallic statues of all kinds, breasts, animals - it took my breathe away. This was much more than I expected.

Now we are looking down......

The Fox lives here and we were close

Up we go

And further up.....

Over fairies

From further up....

Not coming down well we were told

And higer we went

A country of every conceivable sculpted stone in changing colours. We floated backwards and forwards and every turn something had changed, another colour had been added. Silence reigned. We came down as slowly as we had risen, hovering for a moment on the edge of the road before landing on the back of the truck. No "brace for landing" . Not even a glider could land in such an effortless way.

Coming down

And bang.....

And down

Mustufa was THE pilot, a school of his own.. 10 years experience and able to direct a balloon where and how he wanted to. This is how we saw the inside of houses or a foxe's den then discovering and practically touching the tops of those "chocolate fairy chimneys " "The other pilots are driven by the wind and high up you see nothing....." ? he commented. I believed him.
Champagne or the local variety before heading back to the hotel with our diploma in hand. A rushed breakfast and then by 8-30 we were off to discover the Goreme by land.

We landed on the back of that trailer

We had landed .....

The guide book I bought gives a much better description than I could. Here in my words is a very brief summary of what I hope to have recalled as my photos should serve as a discovery. To really see the region, a week would do the trick. In two days we probably covered 10%.

Millions of years ago lava from the volcanoes of Erciyes covered the region to form what is known as Cappadoce . The history began after the lava had cooled down more than 10,000 years ago. It is only recently, in 1958 that remains were found of an ancient civilisation and the excavations carried out in 1965 revealed a 9 to 10 thousand year old neolithic settlement. The Goreme is 30,000 square metres. The volcanic flow were then shaped by tremendous winds and water erosion for hundreds of years. Softer rock and soil eroded leaving the hard cap rock to form the fairy chimneys. Because of the Arab raids, the Christians named the place "gor emi" meaning, "you cannot see this place" The name was later changed to Goreme. Cappadoce means "The land of beautiful horses" because of a race of horses which lived in the region

A semi troglodyte village

A police post

The valley of Avcilar not far from Nevsehir or Urgup was considered by Saint Paul to be the most suitable region for training missionaries. There are, we were told some 365 churches in the vicinity of the Goreme. I'll remember that statistic as I do the 365 cheeses in France. One church or one cheese a day. The Buckle, Sandals, Dark, Apple Snake churches were just some we visited. Lining up was the order of the day and then three minutes only before we were moved on. Fortunately photography is now prohibited as colours have faded. Flash is a dangerous feature of the camera. Nicky marveled at the colours, camomille,walnut, safran, lapis lazuli, madder, .......I found her in one site alone just gazing at the images. Her artistic eye had picked up infintely more detail than mine had.

Every valley, village had un revealed secrets. The colours in the evening changed so radically that the following morning, I wondererd if we really had visited the same site the day before.

Sunset over the valley

As Murat predicted (and he did not like being contradicted) the rain drops started to fall and the temperature fell from 20 to 10 in less than an hour. We were off to see the Derviches. Philosophers, 1001 days of training, 40 odd days to learn a specific metier. From doctor to plumber....and that twirling dance of Seven prayers : eyes closed and for an hour we were lulled to sleep or felt giddy as they turned to fornful music. The ceremony that we watched Semâ symbolises a spiritual ascension, a mystical trip for a human being toward "Perfection" Turning toward truth, he aspires to be a more loving creature and overcomes his ego becoming part of God then returning to his former self but closing in on perfection! He is now ready to serve with love, everyone, without distinction of race, religion, class or culture.The right hand is stetched out above to Allah and the left is turned to the ground to spread love and good will. They turn and turn on one foot - for us, it was 40 minutes? I forgot to ask how many times a day, a week, a month or a year this ceremony was carried out!

Although there were five minutes at the end to take photos, I only took one. My head was still spinning as we climbed into the bus.

Turning and turning.....

There is nothing to say about the so called traditionnel evening of Free grog, local cooking and folklore. Except that once again I had allowed myself to attend the tralala and hopefully that was the last time.

Earlier in the day we had of course visited the carpet making centre. The one I had seen in Antalya had been more interesting with more weaving to be seen. Silk, wool, wool and silk, cotton, kilims......
We at least learnt how to wash our carpets correctly something I had not learnt before. My four Turkish carpets could be clean in the Summer months providing I had a large field to spread them out in. I hope my balcony will suffice.

Before the display of the famous double knotted Turkish carpets, there was the demonstration of silk worms and silk weaving. Years to make such a silk carpet following a very complicated pattern. "Anybody like to try?" asked M. Simon. Nicky volonteered. Although it would have taken ten times the time to complete the carpet, her fingers were nimble and she is a fast learner. However, I think sculpting is more her field than carpet weaving.

Trying to weave

Asking questions.....

Off early the following morning to visit an underground city. This was how my Mother had described Cappadoce to me. Underground tunnels leading to chambers on different floors where the people lived. To this day, no-one knows where the first one was built nor the real reason for their existence. Probably watch towers leaving food on the first floor where the animals lived for the enemy and once this was exhausted And the enemy had disappeared, the Christian dwellers would venture out into the open. Three months? More? But the infrastructure of these underground cities, sometimes six or more stories high is mind boggling. Churches, schools, homes, flour milling where thousands of people lived and as old as 70. However, few kitchens were discovered. It is thought that the families had a common area to cook and eat in so smoke would not arise to the surface for the enemy to detect their where abouts. Eyes which could see in the night, bodies which could negotiate low tunnels, so narrow that obesity would have been replaced by small slender and nimble bodies. Supposedly they were a tall race too.

Before going into the hallway

Need to be slim

We "surfaced"! I was glad to see the light of day. The women and their hand made traditional dolls were a welcome sight. 2€ a doll. My family was growing. Winter and snow was about to set in. They would be busy making their dolls And knitted socks or booties for next year when the thousands of tourists flocked back to visit again.

Dolls of every possible nature...

We were now on our way back to Antalya for our final three day visit. 600 kilometres of winding road through the Silk route. Orhan could be congratulated for his expert driving.

Before visiting Perge and the mighty Roman theatre Avedos, there was of course the visit to the 5000 square metre jewellery centre. As labour is so cheap in Turkey, tourists buy gold chains of all kinds and anything gold plus all the very expensive and precious stones. As I had done my bit in April we were pretty fast in choosing a chain for Nicky. Having it made to fit and cleaning our bits and pieces seemed to take forever. I contented myself looking at the others buying. Murat would not be pleased with my small efforts . My credit card felt happier.

I had already seen Perge and apart from the Acropolis fountain which I loved the first time, I still feel the same about old stones.

Kistros - the God of river

Perge leading up to the Fountain

The fountain

When we got to Aspendos theatre my mind changed. This is the largest Roman theatre in Asia Minor seating some 15,000 people and 10,000 spectators still fill it today for regular performances. Impressive. Apparently the government has closed the theatre recently for peformances due to damage, but whatever way you go, this is an impressive site for 195AD!

Aspendos or half of it.....

One more day to go....Antalya....."A city meeting the winds blowing from the Taurus mountains"

Taurus mountains from the beach at sunset

The morning it was leather and suede. Not the same place I had visited in April and the fashion show was not nearly as "sexy". Neither was the selection of garments although you have to admit that once prices are negotiated and the haggling finalized, the quality is superb and a coat which I could never afford in France. I imagine that my brother who has a luxury shoe and leather shop in Hobart would be very interested to see what techniques are being used to make coats and jackets today. Once upon a time a winter leather or suede coats weighed a ton. Today they weighs less than 500gm and fold into a nice little convenient packet to go into a case. I cracked.

Falling into the sea

We then proceeded to the Karpuzkaldiran Falls. The only falls, we were told, that fall into the sea. Not Victoria Falls but for some reason it was full volume and not as we had experienced the volume of water in Zimbabwe. What was beautiful was the Mediterranean sparkling in the sun and 22°. The group began to shed jumpers and coats.

On again and this time to a very large covered market of Bio fruit and vegies not to mention spices and nuts of every possible variety. A feast for the eyes with so many undefinable varieties.

The green on your right?

And not always fish I knew

Not for sale

I was missing Paris, simple healthy food void of sauces, oils or batter. The buffet may be a feast for the eyes, but the food is tasteless.

One final visit around the old town where we were free to wander for an hour. Nicky was right. It was a pot pourri of so many Mediterranean countries we have visited and strangely enough had no identity of its own. There were few scarved girls around and the young people could have come from anywhere. Mingled with tourists of every nationality, could it be that countries are losing their identities as we move toward globalized people? Had we be in Turkey? Cappadoce and the Goreme definitely.....but Turkey?